What Makes Jewelry Ethical?

Jewelry has long stood as a symbol of beauty, luxury, and love, but beneath its lustrous allure lies an often-overlooked reality: widespread environmental destruction and human exploitation. The global jewelry industry, valued at over $250 billion annually, entails significant costs to the planet and the people who work to extract its raw materials. Understanding exactly what is means to make jewelry sustainable requires peeling back the layers of marketing gloss to confront the environmental and ethical challenges of an industry deeply entwined with the histories of colonialism, capitalism, and ecological degradation.

The Peruvian town of La Rinconada sits nestled high in the Andes at over 16,000 feet. It has become, sadly, a harsh microcosm of the global precious metals industry. There, thousands of local laborers extract gold by hand from perilous shafts, enduring bitter cold and toxic exposure to mercury, a substance essential to the rudimentary processes used in artisanal mining. Rivers that once sustained the region now run thick with chemical waste. The land, once fertile, is barren, scarred by years of unchecked mining.

For the miners and their families, there is little choice. Gold promises a slim chance of prosperity in a region long plagued by poverty. But the environmental price is catastrophic, and the rewards rarely reach the workers. The metal extracted here — eventually refined and polished into the rings and necklaces adorning store shelves — comes at a high cost.

Gold mining alone produces an extraordinary amount of toxic waste. Every gold ring generates approximately 20 tons of tailings that leach cyanide, mercury, and other chemicals into soil and water. Silver, platinum, and other mined materials aren’t much better, and to make it worse, the impacts aren’t limited to the extraction phase. Refining, polishing, and transporting raw materials require vast amounts of energy, which are, as you might have guessed, often derived from fossil fuels. In fact, a 2023 report in Nature Sustainability revealed that most diamonds are cut and polished in countries especially reliant on coal-powered electricity.

And as they so often are, environmental and human exploitation in the mining industry are deeply intertwined. Artisanal and small-scale mining, which supplies a significant portion of gold and gemstones to the market, often occurs in regions with notably weak labor protections. The International Labor Organization has documented extensive use of child labor in mining operations, with over a million children exposed to dangerous chemicals and unstable mining pits. Even when consumers look for assurances through certifications like the Kimberley Process, which is meant to eradicate conflict diamonds or Fairmined Gold, significant gaps remain. The Kimberley Process, for example, focuses narrowly on diamonds funding armed conflict, often ignoring other ethical violations.

The challenge is compounded by the growing popularity of so-called “ethical jewelry brands,” a term that too often serves as little more than a marketing slogan. Many brands make broad claims of sustainability without transparent evidence to back them. As Human Rights Watch reported in a 2018 investigation, some companies tout responsible sourcing while relying on supply chains that include materials from unverified and potentially exploitative sources. Without robust oversight and verifiable standards, these claims risk misleading well-intentioned consumers.

So what are companies doing about it? Instead of relying on newly mined metals and stones, some have begun shifting their focus to recycled materials. Recycling gold, for instance, uses significantly less energy than mining. Vintage and secondhand gemstones, too, provide alternatives that preserve beauty without added harm. Lab-grown diamonds have emerged as a popular option, sidestepping the ecological toll of mining. However, these alternatives are not without complications. The process of growing diamonds in controlled environments can be energy-intensive, and the environmental benefits depend heavily on whether manufacturers use renewable energy sources.

Addressing sustainability always demands transparency. Brands that genuinely commit to ethical practices provide clear sourcing information and third-party audits, offering consumers a way to verify claims. Still, even the most conscientious companies face systemic challenges, including limited access to certified materials for small-scale miners and the higher costs of ethical production, which can be passed on to consumers.

Our cultural relationship with overconsumption further complicates efforts to create a more environmentally conscious jewelry industry. Many consumers are accustomed to treating jewelry as a disposable commodity, chasing fast fashion trends rather than investing in high-quality, long-lasting pieces. This approach drives demand for cheap, mass-produced jewelry that often relies on the very supply chains most responsible for environmental and human harm. By shifting the focus toward timeless design and heirloom-quality craftsmanship, brands and consumers alike could reduce waste and lessen the industry’s footprint.

Critically, the conversation about sustainable and ethically sourced jewelry must extend beyond individual responsibility. Consumer choices and stronger industry-wide regulations are needed to produce systemic change. The Responsible Jewellery Council and other organizations are working to establish stricter guidelines, but these initiatives need greater enforcement and global adoption to drive meaningful change. Governments and international bodies also have a role to play in ensuring that mining operations comply with environmental laws and labor standards. The industry cannot continue to rely on voluntary certifications to address its most pressing ethical dilemmas.

For consumers, the path toward sustainable jewelry begins with awareness and interrogation. It means asking difficult questions about brands, scrutinizing their claims, and demanding transparency. It also requires a willingness to reevaluate the meaning of value and beauty in jewelry. Is it the sparkle of a new diamond that defines worth, or the knowledge that a piece was created without harming people or the planet?

The jewelry we wear has the power to reflect our values. In an era decisively marked by the climate crisis and growing inequality, those values must prioritize environmental stewardship and social equity. The industry’s glittering mirage of unsustainable practices can no longer obscure its harmful consequences. Only by demanding accountability and embracing new standards can consumers and companies transform jewelry from a symbol of excess.

Understanding where jewelry producers stand on ethical sourcing and production can be difficult, but we're trying to make it easier. Head over to the Directory to see full brand sustainability evaluations and breakdowns.